Showing posts with label Tunisia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tunisia. Show all posts

Saturday, 25 September 2010

DATES ARE THE FERTILIZERS OF OUR KNEES...runs an old Arab saying















The date palm is considered to be the world's oldest tree cultivated by man. Date-farming in mentioned on Mesopotamian clay tablets from 3,000 BC while the Holy Qur'an has a reference to Mary sustaining herself on dates while birthing Jesus.

Now served on Arab airline menus, dates were once the basic diet for Bedouin living in the Middle East and North Africa. Their sticky golden fruit, a rich source of carbohydrate, fibre and minerals, was the eaten by both men and animals.

But while its fruit was their staple diet, the date palm had a myriad uses for the hardy nomads who always left one family member in charge of the trees during their annual migration.

The massive trunk, split in two and laid end to end, became an effective canal for conveying water to the oasis while the palm fronds, staked out in the sand, became an enclosure for domestic stock and before oil brought undreamt of riches, Bedouin of the Arab Gulf states lived in barastis - huts made from woven palm branches. Arabian Sea fishermen used a shasha canoe, likewise made of lashed date palm fronds.

Felling a date palm remains almost sacred act with nothing wasted when it crashes to earth.

Raked out and combed, the fibrous heart is made into brooms and woven into ropes, stuffing for cushions, food and prayer mats. The wood chips are gathered for use as fuel; even the stones are saved and crushed for animal fodder ---in Arabian Sands the great explorer Wilfred Thesiger writes how he once carelessly threw a date-stone into his camp-fire and his Bedouin guide leaned over and picked it out.

While wealthy Bedouin now drive Land Cruisers and communicate on mobile phones, the date palm remains deeply rooted in social customs among rural families. In the interior of Oman palms continue to count as bridal dowry and here, as well as in the Maghreb, a man's wealth is still judged on the number of his trees.

While most trees cannot survive in the desert, liking sandy soil and able to endure temperatures of 50c, sees the date palm flourish with a healthy tree capable of producing an annual crop of up to 90 kilos. Some of the world's biggest date plantations line the Shatt al Arab waterway in southern Iraq, whose wall-to-wall palms were remarked on by Ibn Battuta on in 1327:

'……… we travelled on waterways through an uninterrupted garden of …..overshadowing palm groves to the right and left, with traders sitting in the shade of the trees, selling bread, fish, dates, milk and fruit.'

Date palms are dioecious meaning they have male and female organs borne on separate individuals of the same species - male palms produce pollen and female palms bear the fruit. Thousands of years ago natural pollination was carried out by the wind, birds and insects, but in commercial cultivation, each palm is fertilised by hand by an agile pollinator.

Among scores of different types of dates, the rich, golden, almost translucent variety known as deglat al nour is generally considered to be the ‘Queen of Dates’. The odd thing is that while Arabs enjoy dates throughout the year, in western societies they generally only appear at Christmas.


A Tunisian date-farmer checks his crop in Nefta.
Dates and coffee are served in Arab society.
A pollinator climbs a date-palm in Morocco.

Source: www.copix.co.uk














Friday, 27 November 2009

OCTOPUS IS KING IN THE KERKENNAH ISLANDS













Locals eat octopus for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the Kerkennah Islands off Tunisia. It is especially plentiful during the winter fishing season when menus feature octopus soup and salad, grilled octopus, breaded octopus, octopus cous-cous and fish with hot `Kerkennah sauce` made from yes …. Octopus!

Eulogised in poetry as an oasis planted in the sea, the Kerkennah islands lying in the Gulf of Gabes, 20 km off the busy Tunisian port of Sfax - are flat, arid and in summer, very hot. 48c is not unusual during August.

During the prosperous Carthage period, they were important trading posts. Hannibal passed this way, and in 1945, Tunisia`s future leader. Habib Bourguiba, took refuge there.

Not a lot has happened since. Overlooked by tour operators in favour of flashy mainland resorts, the islands remain a secret among a loyal clientele. The white-washed, flat-roofed houses resemble mainland Sidi Bou Said. And everywhere are stacks of pots for trapping octopus.

Gharbi and Chergui, the largest of the seven islands, are inhabited by some 15,000 people who are strict Sunni Muslims. Parents choose a bride, or a groom, who may not even speak to each other before their marriage.

A car-ferry from links Sfax and Sidi Jussef, on Gharbi island where a Roman causeway links Gharbi to Chergui.

Remla, the biggest settlement, on Chergui has souvenir shops, a couple of restaurants, a carpet-weaving centre, and not a lot else.

But the simple life is its attraction. Writing a blog, one man says he`s been there 31 times in a month. Or did he mean he spent a month of 31 days there?

Whatever, Kerkennah is a place to unwind, but while the beaches are sandy, the surrounding Mediterannean is shallow, so you must walk out a long way before it becomes deep enough to swim.

The shallow sea has seen the islanders develop innovative fishing techniques.

They fashion a funnel like fence from palm-frond branches which traps fish when the tide goes out. Octopus-fishing couldn`t be easier: fishermen just drop a jar attached to a float and when an animal takes up residence, they pull it out.

In El Attaya village on the north coast of Chergui, a fisherman will take you out for a few dinar. Bicycles can also be rented to explore the island which measures 11 km from east to west, and horse-carriages are available to tour the palm-groves.

Swamps on the west coast are good for bird-watching. Common species are heron, tern and hoopoe with plover, sandpiper and other waterfowl arriving during winter (November-March). The islands are also a commorant breeding ground although competing for fish, they are unpopular with residents.

Some people tire of the tranquillity of the Kerkennah. Others find the low-key life so appealing, they retire there. At last count a score of expatriates were living on Chergui, including several Swiss, who hold octopus fondue dinner parties.

copyright: Christine Osborne
Images from: www.copix.co.uk

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